Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Eating ceviche in Lima
I was pleasantly surprised when I got to Lima to discover that Peru is known for its seafood and that ceviche is one of the most famous dishes in Lima. This might not come as a surprise to a normal person, but to a topographical cretin such as myself, finding out that Peru wasn't the landlocked country I had imagined and that Lima is actually adjacent to some ocean or other was quite the shocker. Remember, I lived in London for six months before I realized it wasn't on the coast.
Anyway, they love their ceviche in Lima and cevicherías are all over Miraflores, the tony neighborhood that I stayed in. As a group of three we went in and ordered ceviche for two and couldn't finish the enormous plate of frighteningly-sized corn kernels (at least 3 times the size of that wussy "sweet corn" you get at home) and mixed seafood marinating in lime juice. I think this may be because ceviche is meant to be savored with many, many drinks. Many more than we were willing to savor it with, anyway.
Nauseatingly, you can start off your meal by ordering a glass of Leche de Tigre, or Tiger's Milk. That would be a shot of the juice left at the bottom of the plate, and sometimes served with a shot of pisco, Peru's favorite liquor. The perfect way to chase a Peruvian hangover.